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Friday, August 31, 2012

And now for something a little crazy...

In addition to my love for historical clothing (and lots of other things, but that's for another blog post), I also enjoy learning about the various royal families of Europe. Blame it on the royal wedding last year, my anglophelia, Princess Kate, or whatever you like. The long and short of it is, when I saw this photo of Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden and her husband Daniel, I couldn't believe my eyes.

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Yes, they are wearing 1770's-80's clothing. No, it's not photoshopped. Don't get me wrong, it's adorable (Victoria and Daniel are always adorable), but I'm still trying to wrap my brain around it. Make of it what you will.

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

"No one wants to kiss a girl in black"- the 1910's

During my research for this week's post, I've found it hard to stay focused. That's most likely because every garment I'm looking at reminds me of the amazing costumes in this show you might have heard of.

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I've always been in love with the costumes on Downton Abbey (designed by Susannah Buxton and Rosalind Ebbutt), but as I've been researching the decadent, art nouveau-inspired styles of the 1910's, I have a new-found respect for the series.

Fashion in the 1910's can be split roughly into two parts; the luxurious, feminine, pre-war styles, and the simpler cuts and darker colors that came out of necessity during wartime.

Let's take a look.

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Near the beginning of the decade, waistlines on some dresses rose from the low, pigeon-breasted styles to what could almost be called an empire waistline, just above the natural waist.

An early decade Worth gown.
Though corseting was still as rigid as ever, bodices were looser and more tunic-like. In fact, entire evening gowns in high fashion were draped and decorated to reflect the popular Art Nouveau aesthetic and Europe's fascination with Eastern exploration.

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Breathtaking.
A sketch done by a survivor of the Titanic.
Day wear was decidedly more conservative, with simple but tasteful walking suits or dresses for when a lady ventured away from home, and light, summery day dresses for when she stayed in.

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During these first few years of the 1910's, Jeanne Paquin, the first female couturier, reached the peak of her career. She organized the first fashion shows, and according to Wikipedia, often sent her models to operas and races to show off her designs. Her style celebrated the best of the old and foreshadowed the new, setting trends that would appear later in the 1920's, and also creating evening gowns inspired by the 18th century.

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In July, 1914, World War I broke out, and the time for elaborate, extravagant clothing was over. As more and more men disappeared into the trenches, more women went to work. Bear with me here, because a really good example of this change is Downton Abbey, season 2. Sybil Crawley goes from a decked out debutante to a nurse, Edith changes out her beaded evening gowns for a jacket and bicycle trousers to work on a farm, and Cora shows her true potential (and true colors) when she transforms from socialite-turned-mistress of Downton to the all-business, no-nonsense manager of the officer's hospital that Downton Abbey becomes. Even women who aren't actively working for the war effort, like Mary, sport darker colors and simpler, more utilitarian cuts and textiles.

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Sybil's evening wear before the war is cutting edge (harem pants! Scandalous), with bright colors and a brocade-like fabric on the bodice.

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Though much fancier than her nurse's uniform, Sybil's evening wear after the war is much simpler than before. Black fabric with an unremarkable cut and pattern. The character has several dresses like this in her wardrobe.

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Mary's pre-war day wear is characterized by wide-brimmed hats, feminine details, and luxury fabrics. 

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During and after the war, Mary's day outfits are much darker, with two-piece monochromatic suits (very popular during wartime) and hats with small brims.
As you can see above, wide-brimmed hats were very popular at the beginning of the decade. They were worn over hair that was pulled back into a simple bun, sometimes worn at the nape of the neck.

Had to sneak some Cora in there.
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Bobbed hair became fashionable in Paris in 1909, and was beginning to be accepted in fashion forward circles around Europe during the war, but most respectable women kept their hair long. As the decade wore on, hats became smaller, with brims that framed the face. This type of hat was an early version of the cloche that we'll see as we go into the 1920's and 30's.

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Next week, we have a really fun decade on our hands; the Roaring 20's. The beginning of the modern era and freedom in art, music, and politics. Not to mention the return of beading and other decoration in fashion (and how). Until then, I'll leave you with this fun clip of an actual fashion show from 1917. Enjoy!

Monday, August 27, 2012

Amazing Historical Accessories: The Chatelaine

Sometimes your research takes you on a bunny trail of serendipity, each new discovery forming a stepping stone in the form of a nugget of interesting information. The internet is built that way, I suppose, leading you from one site to another and sparking your curiosity just enough to go on one more time.

Anyway, all that is to say, I found something else from the 1900's post and subsequent family history discovery.

Remember that brooch with the scissors and all the little doodads hanging from Lucy's waist? Here's another look:

Check out the bottom left.
Turns out, that thing is a chatelaine (French for "mistress of the castle"), a wide broach or clip that pins to the waist with chains hanging from it. On the chains are clips, to which can be attached miniature notebooks, pens, keys, scissors, watches, sewing kits, magnifying glasses, and little cases or pouches to store anything else you might need. So handy!

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According to this helpful article, chatelaines were often given as a wedding gift from a groom to his bride.

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During the last few decades of the 19th century, dresses often didn't have definitive waistlines, so chatelaines migrated north and were pinned to the bodice.

The chatelaine is such a pretty and practical accessory. I wish they were still around today.

Friday, August 24, 2012

Decade Wednesday Extra

Fun anecdote time!

When I was researching this past week's Decade Wednesday post on the 1900's, I knew I wanted to give a nod to the numerous inventions that sprouted up around the turn of the 20th century. After doing some digging into Thomas Edison's work, I found out that I'm (very distantly) related to William Kennedy Laurie Dickson, who worked with Edison to create an early version of the movie camera. He traveled around the world and filmed several prominent Victorian figures, from Queen Victoria to Pope Leo XIII to Annie Oakley.

Here are some pictures of William and his wife Lucy that my grandma had in her garage (Lucy also happened to be an opera singer). Aren't they fabulous?

I love Lucy's scissors, watch, etc. hanging from her outfit. William's beaver coat is also really cool.

Lucy wore this gown when she was presented to Queen Victoria during her Diamond Jubilee in 1897.

You learn something new every day. ;)

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

A Great Big Beautiful Tomorrow- the 1900's

As we move into the 20th century, the Industrial Revolution is hitting its peak, and technology progresses at a breakneck speed. The airplane, the polygraph test, the motion picture camera, the escalator, the radio, the roller coaster, the tractor, the vacuum cleaner, the air conditioner, neon lights, the teddy bear, crayons, windshield wipers, and Einstein's theory of relativity were all invented in the last five years of the 1890's and the first five years of the 1900's (Source for that information). As travel became easier, the world put more focus on international affairs. For example, the Olympics were revived in 1896 in Athens, and later in Paris in 1900.

We also have two monumental shifts of power in the beginning of the 1900's. In January of 1901, Queen Victoria passed away, and her son Albert Edward became King Edward VII of Britain. The Victorian era ended, and the Edwardian era began.

In September of the same year, US President William McKinley was assassinated shortly after being re-elected, and his new vice president Theodore Roosevelt took the office at 42 years old, making him the youngest president to date.

Welcome to the 20th century, where the pace of change is a mile a millisecond. Oh, and the clothes also happen to be fabulous.

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The bodices of 1900s day wear are the most iconic part of the ensemble. Collars were at an all-time high, and waistlines were low, creating the "pigeon breast" look.

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Sleeves for day wear continued to be wide (although not quite as much as in the 1890's), but not always at the shoulder. The volume would occasionally drift to the elbows, and more commonly, the wrist.

Source. I love the patchy lace pattern.

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Skirts were still narrow, but some had trains at the bottom, making for a sort of mermaid effect.

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The standard for evening wear became elbow-length sleeves and low, wide square necklines.

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Source. Loving the lace.

Luxury fabrics such as velvet, silk, and brocade were popular during the decade. Lace, feathers, and pearls were popular accents.

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The Gibson Girl hairstyle reached its peak of popularity, and stayed that way until the end of the decade. Hats became wide-brimmed and elaborate (seen above and below).

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Some gorgeous Gibson 'dos. The style on the bottom left is a good example of hair later in the decade.
Next week will be a fun one for Downton Abbey fans like me (it's already been pretty fun to see the style of Cora and everyone's favorite Dowager Countess). As we venture further into the 20th century, we'll see the (very gradual) fall of the corset, the sinking of the Titanic, and World War I. I do realize that one of those things is not like the others, but change is a'coming.

Stay tuned this Friday for a fun easter egg I found while researching this post!

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Mutton and Mauve- the 1890's

The last decade of the 19th century was a bittersweet one, consisting of both new innovations and hard-fought conflicts. Queen Victoria became the longest reigning British monarch of all time. Automobiles began production and distribution. Yosemite Park was founded. In 1894, there was an attempted terrorist attack on the Royal Greenwich Observatory in London, and in 1898, the Spanish-American War took place. In America, it was later referred to as "The Gay Nineties" (in the archaic sense of the word, silly), in spite of economic struggles.

Another nickname for the 1890's was "The Mauve Decade," referring to a popular color in fashion, which serves as a not-so-seamless transition into this week's Decade Wednesday post.
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Right out of the gate in the early 1890's, bustles disappeared and skirts narrowed to a natural a-line.

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The foreshadowing we saw in evening wear near the end of the 1880's would now come to fruition; near the early-mid decade, sleeves began to grow in volume near the shoulder, getting progressively larger as the decade wore on.

Early decade.
Mid decade.

Late decade.

An evening wear example.

Bodices for day wear became loose and blouse-like, and waistlines dropped slightly in the front. For middle class women and sportswomen, a high-necked blouse called a shirtwaist became popular.

Some artists have no idea how to draw children. Creepy.
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Fancy decoration was not a popular as in the decade before, but there was still a fair amount of it, especially in evening wear. Sleeves were at their puffiest, and floral trims abounded.

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Bicycling became a popular hobby for women in the later half of the decade, and suits built especially for the activity came into fashion, with shorter skirts and plain, sturdy fabrics. Some cycling suits featured bloomers instead of skirts, and for the first time since its unsuccessful introduction in the middle of the 19th century, the loose, full pants were commonly worn.

A suit with a skirt
Suits with bloomers.
Hairstyles at the beginning of the decade were much like those of the 1880's, but around the middle of the decade, the Gibson Girl became the face of womanly beauty, and hair was changed to emulate this image. Hair was piled high on top of the head in a wavy, loose, naturalistic bouffant.

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Hats were medium-sized (they would grow as the Edwardian era began), and most likely pinned to the hair in the center of the head by use of a hatpin (which had grown to be very popular since ribbons on bonnets went out of fashion). For sportswear, women would sometimes wear a straw, boater-like hat.

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Next week, several big changes hit us all at once. We'll be dealing with a new century, a new king, and several new developments in the fashion world. It will definitely be an adventure.

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Setting the Stage- The 1880's


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The 1880's were a time of subtle fashion changes, where the same basic ideas of the 1870's were looked at in new and creative ways that paved the way for the fashion of the early 20th century. The rigid corseting that had existed for so long in Western fashion had now reached an all-time extreme. The fashionable silhouette was a full bust, a tiny waist, and full hips. The new fitted dresses hid nothing and allowed for no breathing room. Several attempts had been made throughout the 19th century to produce more comfortable clothing, but nothing really stuck until the desired changes were brought about by necessity during World War I.

The bustle had briefly gone out of fashion during the mid-late 1870's, but by the early 1880's, they were back in full force. Some overskirts for both day and evening were pinned up to reveal a matching underskirt.

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Sleeves for both day and evening remained basically the same; day dresses had long, fitted sleeves, and the sleeves on evening gowns were short and off the shoulder. However, as I'm researching, I'm also seeing several gowns with elbow length sleeves (as in the above image). My first guess is that they're evening dresses, but they could also be for the afternoon or dinner, with the longer sleeves of day wear but the low necklines of evening wear.

This is also a good example of the hourglass silhouette that was fashionable during the period.
The necklines on day dresses rose from the base of the neck to a high collar, foreshadowing similar looks from the 1890's and 1900's.

Gorgeous trim.
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The long, jacket-like bodices of the 1870's were still popular for walking dresses. Rouching was also common.

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Source. Also check out the elbow-length sleeves.
About 1885 and more so as the 1890's drew closer, a strange phenomenon emerged in evening wear. Sleeves on some evening dresses became ridiculously puffed. We're talking 1830's levels of volume. It didn't overwhelm evening gowns exclusively, but it did offer a glimpse of what we'll see as we forge ahead into the Edwardian era.

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Silk and silk brocade were both extremely popular fabrics of the period for any time of day.

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Hair was worn high on top of the head, with bangs curled over the forehead. Some hats were slightly larger than in the 1870's, with brims that framed the face, while others perched on top of the head and fastened with ribbons under the chin.

A beautiful portrait by Tissot.

Another Tissot.

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As I've been researching this decade, one name keeps coming up over and over again; Charles Frederick Worth. After Googling researching it, I found out that he's widely considered the father of Haute Couture as we know it today, and he designed clothing for the majority of the Victorian era. Fashion history nerd moment: he designed the white star-spangled gown worn by Empress Elisabeth of Austria in the portrait painted by (you guessed it) Franz Xaver Winterhalter. His designs are bold and colorful, ranging from gorgeous to outlandish.

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Next week is the last decade of the 19th century, as well as the effective end of the Victorian era (although it didn't end officially until 1901). It seems like not so long ago, we were knee-deep in the era of Jane Austen, Lord Byron, and Beau Brummell. Now we're in the time of the Impressionists, Laura Ingalls Wilder, and the soon-to-be king of England Albert Edward. And in just a few short weeks, we'll be halfway into the 20th century, and this leg of Decade Wednesday will be over. Join me next week, when we kiss the 19th century goodbye.